New Criticals

If you read food blogs, surely you have noticed that the backlash against molecular cuisine is now the de facto base for food criticism. Food writers sneer at menus that have anything remotely reminiscent of what is now considered a ‘fad’ in gastronomy. From that high point of innovation proposed by Adrià and his school, we have moved fully to the height of a new trend, that of the “care for the ingredient.”

Simple perfect ingredients are now the centerpieces of any plate and the discourse around it is one of authenticity. Locality is now paramount in the best kitchens around the world. During its height, molecular cuisine was authentic, but the cuisine d’auteur has now embraced authenticity of ingredients, sourcing of food products and knowledge of local terroirs as its most sincere banner. This has opened a space for producers to be more closely connected to cuisines and for some cooks to step outside into the gardens, farms, and markets to find the best ingredients.